Our mounts are all done using the highest possible quality materials and tanned skins to ensure a lifetime of enjoyment.
Average whitetail shoulder mount $550.
Additional cost for pedestal mounts/habitats/custom mounts.
Curious about our other taxidermy services and pricing, like the cost for mounting Elk, Mule Deer, full-body mounts, coyotes and so forth,
please call (217) 369-4468, or stop by our showroom for an estimate on anything not listed.
Skulls are cleaned using our Dermestid beetles and professionally degreased, whitened, & sealed with museum grade sealant.
We clean our skulls in house & can clean most any type of skull.
Whitetail - $120.
Contact us for pricing for cleaning of other animal skulls (mammals, fish, birds)- if it will fit in with our beetles - they can clean it.
Custom metal skull hangers available for $15.
Habitats and panels available for additional cost.
We offer hydrographic printing to skulls as an add on service to skulls. If you are bringing in a pre-cleaned skull not cleaned by us, skulls must be fully degreased prior to dipping therefore are subject to additional cleaning if not fully degreased. Currently we are only offering Snow Blind Camo and Barbed Wire prints.
Whitetail (& similar sized) - $85
Contact us for pricing of other types of skulls.
When you’re out in the field with a prize buck that you want to get mounted, there are several crucial steps you need to be aware of to ensure it’s in the best condition for the taxidermist. Here are some top tips for getting your buck from the field to the taxidermist in a few simple steps.Big game, such as deer, should immediately be field dressed. Do not slit the throat or neck in any manner. Be sure to stop your field dressing incision behind the front legs (see picture above.) IF you intend to do a full body mount, do not remove any parts that we will need when you field dress it - please call us and let us guide you or bring it to us. Always lift the animal off the ground to move it, or place it on a tarp if dragging is necessary. This will prevent damage to the hair or fur.
Always take your time when skinning your trophy, always use a sharp blade and always cut from the flesh side (never the hair side) so as not to cut the hair fibres in half. Make a cut around the midsection, keeping well back from the back of the shoulders (fig2A). One of the biggest mistakes is the tendency to cut too far forward on the brisket. Slack and adjustments for shoulder mounts are dictated by the brisket length so leave plenty. The diagram above shows the cut behind the shoulder, but it’s best to make your cut at the mid-abdomen section of the animal.
The following cuts should be just above or at the first knuckle or knee of the animal (fig2B). The most effective method is to ‘tube’ the cape up to the back of the head. Stop approximately 2-3 inches from the back of the head where the spine and skull meet and cut the skull from the spine (fig3). The other optional, but inadvisable, cut is directly up the spine-line, stopping at the skull. This cut is very easy to mess up so it’s best to refrain from doing this in the field unless absolutely necessary.
After skinning the cape lay it out, hair-side down and let the flesh-side cool. After the heat has gone from the cape, fold it over on itself, roll it up (hair side out) with the head inside the roll, double bag it, get it cold and get it to your taxidermist immediately. Bacterial damage starts immediately. The fact that your specimen is not slipping hair does not mean it has not begun to deteriorate. If temperatures are close to freezing, you can safely hold your animal one day before getting it it to your taxidermist. But if it will be a few days before doing this get it into freezer. To avoid freezer burn of delicate facial/ear tissue, again make sure the cape is covering the face/ears when you bag it. Always double bag it removing as much air/water as possible. This will help minimize freezer burn. Besides bacteria setting in, freezer burn around eye tissue, on ears, and nose/mouth are very damaging to the tissue. If you choose to take your trophy to a locker for processing, be certain to give the locker complete instructions about your trophy. Find out exactly when it will be ready for pick-up and if it will be refrigerated or frozen. Never assume it will be handled properly. Be prompt in picking up your trophy and delivering it to your taxidermist.
1. Keep the cape clean: Sometimes it’s next to impossible, but a clean cape free of debris and large chunks of meat are much appreciated and facilitates prepping the cape for form mounting.
2. When in doubt, leave more: Don’t try and guess where the skin needs to be cut for the minimum amount needed for the form. More is better! Granted, more skin equals more weight for the pack out, but it could save you money if the cape ends up being too short and additional work is needed for patching or moderate/major repairs. Some of the biggest mistakes are in the brisket areas…cut well back from the brisket areas.
3. Leave the head in: Unless you are proficient in removal of the skin over the head don’t try and attempt this yourself in the field. Eye, nose, lip, ear, and scent gland membranes must be retained for adequate and effective mounting. The best practice is to leave the head/skull in the cape and deliver to your taxidermist so they can take care of the final removal.
1. Cutting too close to the brisket or damaging the armpit/shoulder areas: When gutting, it’s a common mistake to come too far up and cut into the brisket skin, inadvertently splitting part of the cape. Or cutting off the armpit area or putting holes in that area. This requires repairs by the taxidermist and can cause potential problems, especially for early season/warm weather animals that carry shorter hair.
2. Not making the round/midsection cut far enough back: Stay at least 4-6 inches back from the shoulder blades when cutting around the mid-section for the cape removal to ensure you have enough skin to cover a shoulder mount form.
3. Incorrectly cutting lines or using a dull knife: If you decide to make the cut up the back of the neck line, make sure your animal is squared up. A ‘wavy’ cut or one that goes down just one side of the neck presents potential problems and more work for the taxidermist. The best practice is to ‘glove’ the neck and leave the cut up to your taxidermist. Use the sharpest knife you can, a dull knife will make rough cuts and damage to the skin and hair.
4. Not cooling the cape down: Capes spoil almost quickly so make sure to cool it as soon as possible. Keep it cold (either in a freezer or ice) and get it to the taxidermist within 24-48 hours.
See our Blog Post About this for Images:
At Feather Creek Taxidermy, we offer a product for customer use that, when applied twice a year, deters insect infestation, makes cleaning easy, restores natural sheen, and repels dirt. Ask about it & pricing when you stop by to visit us!
It is far, far better to keep up with the cleaning than to let it get bad and then try to get it clean again.
Try to keep people, especially children, from handling your mount. Overmuch handling will result in oils from people’s skin getting on your mount. If the hair gets messed up, sifting it back and forth with your hand will usually remove the problem. If it does not, use a comb to get the hair back in line. Then sift the hair back and forth to remove the comb lines.